A trip to the Bieszczady Mountains by motorcycle – in search of the angels

We have planned our trip to the Bieszczady Mountains by motorcycle quite intensively: Solina, Bieszczady’s Motorcycle Marina, Ustrzyki G贸rne, the ruins of the castle in Sobie艅 and at the very end the serpentines in the S艂onne Mountains. Of course, we assumed that the weather would be great. The forecasts wasnt good, but we still went to sleep with a light heart, because, as Kaczmarski used to sing, “here in autumn, like in a paradise garden, you don’t care about anything but the existence”. Regardless of the weather.

Motorcycle trip to the Bieszczady Mountains – stop number one – Solina

Solina is one of the favorite places motorcyclists like to visit, but not only. It’s the kind of Mecca of the Bieszczady Mountains. No wonder, because it is a beautiful place, and in September it appeared to us from the side from which we did not know it yet. This time it was not full of life and cheerful, there was no laughter and bustle. It was calm, nostalgic, the coming autumn could be felt in the air. Most of the local peoples closed their business for the winter, the marina was still open, but only for a few lonely sailboats and remnants of tourists. The perfect time to calm down with a glass of mulled beer and the sounds of shanties.

How was it with Solina? A few words about the history

The Solina Reservoir has a sad history. Before the war, almost 800 people lived in that place. Quite a lot. People were connected with a beautiful, green valley. They lived there for years, from grandfather, great-grandfather. They built schools, Orthodox churches, temples, cemeteries where they buried their loved ones. They linked their future with this place, this was the land they loved. Later, everyone was forced to move out, pack their life’s possessions and leave their home, to which they were not supposed to return. The construction work of the Solina Reservoir began in 1960. In addition to engineers, builders, and workers of various ointments, Solina was also visited by “specialists” working on the exhumation of corpses. It was by the authorities promised that all cemeteries would be moved.

– They dug out human remains from the graves and transported them to the cemetery in Wolkowya. Some of them were still lying in decayed coffins, others in bulk. It was a terrible sight…

Bieszczady motocyklem

However, this did not happen, because in the 90s anglers from Pola艅czyk noticed floating crosses and coffins. This caused a great commotion because there were five cemeteries in the flooded areas, which were supposedly exhumed and moved to other places. However, human bones and coffins found on the shore of the lagoon contradicted this. In the document “Solina Hydroelectric power plant – final works” we can read that there were only three cemeteries on the flooded areas, not five – Solina, Wolkowyja and Tele艣nica – and a funeral ground for animals in Solina. The remains of the animals were burned and the cemeteries were exhumed. The question arises: what about the other two cemeteries – Sokolski and Chrewski?

– I won’t forget how they destroyed the church. In one moment a storm broke out, the lightning struck as if the apocalypse was coming. Mom stood in the hallway. Elderly people later said that it was God who got angry with the assassination attempt on his House.

Solina wasn’t the only one that was supposed to be flooded

Solina wasn’t the only village to be flooded. Also villages Zadzia艂 and Podkaliszcze, Tele艣nica Sanna with the 艁臋g hamlet, Horodek, Chrewt, part of Sokole, Zawoz, Rajskie, and Wo艂kowya. The houses had to be dismantled on their own. If anyone opposed, they were ordered to move out, and their farm was razed to the ground with bulldozers. People had to transport their belongings in horse-drawn carts, many kilometers, with roads with many holes. By the way roads there even now, in the 21st century, leave much to be desired. The authorities did not care about the inhabitants’ requests for even one truck. The places of the cult of the saint were not treated any better. While the Solina church was demolished and reassembled (today it is in the Sanok open-air museum), the fate of many churches, which were simply blown up, was worse.

聽– Heart’s breaking. There is only a great depth now, and I still see my home. 400 meters from the shore, I can point it with my finger and I won’t make a mistake.

All this in the right cause, sadness only overwhelms that it was done on tears and human harm. We do not want to judge the people who made the decision to flood Solina and nearby villages. If there is a concept of the lesser evil, they certainly chose it. Thanks to them, the water resources of the Vistula tributaries were regulated, but all the time we are wondering whether the whole process could not be carried out in a different, more human way. We’d probably hear “such times”.

Motorcycle trip to the Bieszczady Mountains – stop number two – Motorcycle Marina

If you were not, you must visit the Bieszczady’s Motorcycle Marina. Although we were not lucky enough to meet the host, about whom we have already heard legends, but we were greeted by a nice, young hostess, creator of a brilliant cheesecake and coffee. We are true admirers of all kinds of cheesecakes and this one was really delicious. We will definitely come back to this place because we can feel the power from this location, unfortunately in the September season, a bit empty. We drank coffee and moved on, around the Great and Small Bieszczady Loop through Ustrzyki G贸rne in the direction of Lesko and the serpentines in the S艂onne Mountains. If someone is a bit hungry and the coffee is not enough, you can have a good meal at the Black Rooster Inn, its worth its price, but it is not a low-budget meal there.

Bieszczady motocyklem

Motorcycle trip to the Bieszczady Mountains – stop number three – Ustrzyki G贸rne

We couldn’t avoid visiting Ustrzyki G贸rne, which has been a guest in our hearts for many years, as a place of youthful excursions, bonfires with a guitar, SDM songs, the taste of the first wine and sandwiches with ketchup (because there was no money for more). Now, with the passage of time, at least in our opinion, that place is losing its original atmosphere more and more. The biggest disappointment was the pub with reggae music “Bieszczadzka Legenda” in the place where once stood “U rze藕biarza” (At the Sculptor’s). Either we got old too soon, or too many memories connected us with this place for the new pub to charm us. Mr. Andrzej Lach, who had run it before, is no longer living in Ustrzyki G贸rne.

Probably many people remember his songs sung near the firecamp and stories, which may not always have been true, but they had their own unique atmosphere. He handed over the business to his son, who was not so successful, and that’s why he sold the place. Mr. Andrzej still lives in the Bieszczady Mountains, plays guitar, sings and sculpts. We heard that it can be found near 艁opienka, this time we didn’t check that, but surely we will want to do it in the next year. If you haven’t had the pleasure of talking to him, you should, because it’s always worth knowing the true legend of the Bieszczady Mountains. While there is still time. We moved on, through Lesko to the village of Wujskie, where the well-known S艂onne serpentines begin.

Bieszczady motocyklem

Motorcycle trip to the Bieszczady Mountains – stop number four – Slonne’s Mountains serpentines

The longest serpentines in Poland are located in the Subcarpathian region in the Slonne’s Mountains. It is no longer the Bieszczady Mountains, but not so far away from them, and everyone who likes a bit more sharp corners should drive a motorcycle between the village of Wujskie and Tyrawa Wo艂oska. This is one of the most spectacular routes of this type in Poland, it is not as picturesque as we expected, but it gives a lot of fun and excitement. Interestingly, when there was no asphalt surface there were more corners. Until the 1970s, the road there had 42 serpentines, now there are 18.

Bieszczady motocyklem

The Subcarpathians is not only the Bieszczady Mountains! Be sure to check OUR POST FROM ANOTHER TRIP on the beautiful Subcarpathian region.

Comments (13)

Z ch臋ci膮 bym odtworzyla wasz膮 tras臋, ale marny ze mnie kierowca!

Wi臋cej wiary we w艂asne mo偶liwo艣ci, na pewno by艣 sobie poradzi艂a 馃檪

Na pewno jest tam pi臋knie inaczej ni偶 w du偶ych miastach, nigdy nie by艂am w Bieszczadach, chyba dlatego 偶e nie ma tam wody :-))

Jak to nie ma wody? 馃檪 Przyje偶d偶aj w takim razie w艂a艣nie nad opisywany Zalew Soli艅ski, do 偶eglowania rewelacyjna miejsc贸wka, cho膰 przez swoje wiatry potrafi by膰 zdradliwa dla niekt贸rych zbyt pewnych swoich umiej臋tno艣ci 馃檪

To musi by膰 super uczucie wolno艣ci tak jecha膰 przed siebie w tak pi臋knych krajobrazach

Je偶eli jeszcze jedzie si臋 we wspania艂ym towarzystwie, to nic wi臋cej do szcz臋艣cia nie potrzeba 馃檪

W Bieszczadach by艂am ca艂e lata temu i podoba艂o mi si臋.

Na takie stwierdzenie nie pozostaje nic innego jak powiedzie膰: w pe艂ni si臋 zgadzam 馃檪 Bieszczady s膮 pi臋kne! 馃檪 Wracaj w te rejony, wiele si臋 pozmienia艂o 馃檪

Niesamowita ta historia zalewu Soli艅skiego. By艂em raz w Bieszczadach na pieszej w臋dr贸wce i tam偶e ale nie mia艂em o tym poj臋cia.
Natomiast pami臋tam brudne schroniska, 艣liskie b艂oto w g贸rach, mokry namiot i buty kt贸re mi si臋聽rozpad艂y w trasie.

A ja jestem 艣wi臋cie przekonany, 偶e takie jak Twoje wspomnienia s膮 najlepsze 馃檪

Nigdy nie by艂am w tamtej okolicy Polski, a tym bardziej motorem. Widz臋 ze warto 馃檪

Moje ukochane Bieszczady… Piekne widoki! Pozdrawiam cieplo! ?

Planuj臋 wyjazd w Bieszczady ju偶 od dawna. Miejsca pi臋kne, tylko dystans i perspektywa jazdy 7-8 godzin, troch臋 mnie przerastaj膮 馃槈 Historia Soliny bardzo ciekawa, wcze艣niej nigdy jej nie s艂ysza艂am.

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